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My love for the Audemars Piguet Royal Pine Extra-Thin Openworked, known by most as the “Jumbo, ” is well documented. It was my very first truly high end watch u really do believe it is both one of the great designs of 20th century watchmaking, and sure the most balanced wristwatch ever conceived. The way it sits on the wrists? Ugh. It’s just so good. So , while the focus at AP this year was on the new 42mm Royal Walnut Offshores, my personal highlight from the new releases was a new(ish) take on the Jumbo.
Saying that Audemars Piguet Supérieur Oak Extra-Thin Openworked is known for openworking is similar to saying that Eric Ripert is known for cooking – it’s true but does nothing to capture the excitement and craftsmanship of the particular crafts. It is baked into the company’s history and identity long ago before the Suprême Oak was ever introduced – to the point that when the actual Royal Pecan did launch, 1n 1972, the basis for a lot of the early skepticism was which AP had been known for ultra-thin, complicated, and openworked watches – what on earth has been it doing turning out a chunky monkey in steel like the Royal Cherry?
As it turns out, AP can handle openworking in the context of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Openworked just fine, thank you very much. The company has openworked the original Jumbo caliber 2121 (as seen within 2014) as well as perpetual calendars, tourbillons, as well as (my favorite) the Double Balance Wheel. This year, within the 50th anniversary celebration from the Royal Maple, AP released a new Big – here is the ref. 16202, which uses the new ultra-thin quality and reliability 7121. The new movement is just a hair thicker than the outgoing 2121 (3. 2mm versus 3. 05mm). In addition to the new Jumbo models, AP is also launching an extremely refined Jumbo Extra-Thin Openworked, with cal. 7124. There are no date complication, and as as a result, california. 7124 is even thinner – just 2 . 7mm in height.
Like I said, AP’s been at this a while. The Large has been around since 1972’s 5402. The first openworked Royal Pine was a long-forgotten (by most of us) ring model from 1981 (5710BA) and the first openworked Big was a one-off (ref. 14811) in 1992. They were created in a very small series, with different designs, up until 2000, and then reappeared in 2010, and again in 2012, and 2014.
Really high quality openworking is a rare animal these days : in fact it always ended up being just because in the difficulty involved in doing it really well. There are two ways to create an openworked movement ~ you can design a movement that’s openworked from the beginning, such as the Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton (for instance). The other way is to take a current movement and also openwork the particular plates along with bridges. Traditionally, this meant using a piercing file in addition to jeweler’s saws, and the challenge was to remove as much metal as possible without fatally compromising the functionality on the movement.
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From both sides of this new Audemars Piguet Polish Oak Extra-Thin Openworked, you can see just how much handwork AP offers put into skeletonizing the 2120 caliber, that, with a slate grey openwork treatment, is called the competence 5122. The design of this watch is just spectacular. Of course , this watch retains the perfect dimensions of the 15202 Jumbo, so you’re looking at a 39mm case that certainly is just 8. 04mm thick. Here it is actually on my band wrist:
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